Howdy Dr. Wine Stain,
Well, I’m a leatherworker by trade. Yes, sir-ee, I spend most of my days surrounded by saddles, reins and the smell of well-worn leather. I have to say, it’s a smell I reckon could rival any fiiine perfume!
You know, recently, a wine-loving buddy of mine got me curious about the old vino. I always thought that it was a load of Hoopity-Hoo-La but there they were rattling off tasting notes about wine smelling like “sweaty saddles,” “horses” and even "the stable" itself. Now, I ain’t one for silly-frilly nonsense, but you got my attention when I heard wines could remind folks of my favorite four-legged companions because I just love the smell of horses.
That brings me to tannins. I’ve noticed that drying sensation folks talk about, and I can’t help but wonder - is it related to tanning leather?
Do different kinds of tannins create different drying sensations, like how leather feels different based on the process or hide? And while we’re at it, could you break down the fancy tannin descriptors wine folks use?
Dr. Winestain: Well, Boyson, saddle up because we’re about to trit-trot through the world of tannins - those complicated compounds that bring a certain mouthfeel to the feel of the mouth. And yes, my leather-obsessed friend, your instinct is spot on…the word “tannin” and the process of tanning leather share a common root.
What are the origins of the Term “Tannin?” We know that it has a rich etymological history with roots traced back to the Old German word “tanna,” meaning oak or fir - a nod to the use of oak bark in the tanning process…a deep rabbit hole for a wine lover to dive into, if you have a few days!
“The French” later adapted this to “tan” but the word “tannin” itself was formally coined in 1796, derived from the French “tanner,” meaning “to tan leather.” But, if we dig deeper into the linguistic soil, both the French “tanner” and the German “tanna” ultimately stem from the Latin word “tannare,” meaning “to tan or convert.” This root captures the essence of the magical transformation - whether it’s turning animal hides into leather, your pale skin into a more attractive sun-kissed shade of bronze or grape must into a tannin-structured wine by aging it in a toasted oak barrel.
What are tannins, anyway? They are cheeky, polyphenolic compounds, which sound like a sci-fi alien race, and they may be that. We do know that they’re the reason a young Madiran can make your tongue feel like it’s trying to escape your own mouth.
What are polyphenolic compounds, anyway? Well, they probably aren’t an alien race, but they are a group of chemical compounds found in fruits, leaves, seeds and bark. They serve various purposes, from repelling hungry animals from eating fruit to acting as antioxidants. In wine, they’re responsible for structure, aging potential and the drying sensation that adds complexity to your favorite tipple.
What do tannins do, anywho? They bind to proteins, which is why you’ll notice them more if you drink a bold, young red wine on its own versus pairing it with a thick, juicy steak. The proteins in the meat help mellow them out, making you think the wine has suddenly softened, like a starch-ironed shirt that dreams of being wrinkled.
Where do wine tannins come from, anyhow? We know that they come from a few places, actually. First of all, from the grape itself - from its skins, seeds and stems. These tannins are responsible for making your mouth feel like a desert breeze just rolled through, leaving behind a faint memory of moisture.
I like to think of tannins in terms of designing a sofa…let me explain
Skins are the foundation - the frame, the outer material, the part you actually interact with. The thicker the skins, the more tannins you get - hence why Nebbiolo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah can sometimes feel like they’re trying to strip the skin from your gums.
Seeds are where things get a bit riskier. They contain bitter tannins, which winemakers generally try to avoid extracting too aggressively. After all, we don’t want a sofa covered in tiny tacks, like a bed of nails. A little structure? Yes. A medieval torture couch? Probably not.
Stems are another option, introduced when whole-cluster fermentation is used. This method is an entire Q&A for another day, but essentially, stems add extra structure, much like adding large armrests to your sofa. Some people love the added elbow support, while others just think they get in the way of a good afternoon nap.
Wood is another source - what we might refer to as the “barrel effect.” In fact, wood contributes its own set of tannins - ones that are often smoother, silkier and more refined. Think of a velvet chaise lounge in a dimly candle-lit library. Barrel tannins don’t just add structure; they bring a bouquet of additional flavors - vanilla, spice, toast, or that faintly nostalgic scent of a seductive librarian.
Different types of oak contribute different tannin levels, but much like choosing a couch, it all depends on style, material, and whether you want to impress your friends or just have something comfortable to sit on.
There are many choices when it comes to the influence of wooden barrels. The most exclusive might be compared to the Huanghuali Couch Bed, a rare piece from China's late Ming dynasty, crafted from huanghuali wood. It fetched over $2.6 million at auction - a rare sofa indeed. Just like an ultra-exclusive barrel, it’s wildly expensive, highly sought after, and, unfortunately, not something I’ll be putting in my living room anytime soon.
This couch bed fetched over $2.6 million at auction, a rare Sofa indeed and totally out of my price range.
I hope this answers your question, Boyson, and for now, I need to continue shopping for a new couch. But do keep an eye out for upcoming articles where we’ll continue uncoiling the mysteries of barrels and tannins - and I promise, by then, I’ll have finally gotten my mind off sofas. Probably.
Have more wine queries that need uncorking? Send them in and let Dr. Winestain guide you through the a-maz-ing world of wine.
send email to Dr. Wine Stain @ indeliblewinestain@gmail.com
